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Simone Rocha’s new ‘Winter Roses’ collection leaves you in no doubt that this 34-year old designer is never going to rest on her laurels.
Ten years after launching her eponymous label at London Fashion Week, the Dubliner’s intention was to challenge herself in a new direction and “push through” in AW21.
Her ambitions saw her explore new ideas with a clarity and identity, using her ‘Three Graces’ of satin, leather and silk.
There was volume and a play on proportion and feminine, highly embellished ‘creeping flower’ embroideries in tulle and net, pretty cameos made from porcelain, floral painted pearl earrings and extra-chunky boots in punched black and white leather.
However, it was the introduction of a black leather story and Simone’s signature take on the biker jacket, coats and dress that delivered a surprise for her hardcore fans yesterday as they watched her London Fashion Week (LFW) film, shot in a gothic London church last weekend.
The light changes through the stained glass windows as the eight models – a quarter of the number she would normally use in a LFW catwalk show – came through with pieces that spoke of fragility and strength.
Simone has worked with leather before, but not in such a specific way.
She referenced the classic biker jacket – for some, a fashion uniform – and in her hands this protective piece gets a tiny ruffle on the shoulder.